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Sink|Swim

3213 W. Armitage Ave.
Chicago, IL 60647
773-486-7465
Rating:

Critic’s Notes

This roomy storefront, run with laid-back charm by the folks behind cocktail nirvana Scofflaw, gets so much right. Thick ropes and bottled ships lend a nautical touch, and chef Matt Danko integrates seafood into intricate compositions in unexpected and winning ways. Take a look at—and a taste of—the creamy monkfish liver sprinkled with caviar and tempered with pickled grapes and onion soubise, and you know you’re at a restaurant with greater ambitions than, say, shucking oysters. But, some of the kitchen’s greatest successes are all turf, no surf: case in point, an Asian-tinged beef and Broccolini. Drinks, both classic and original, are terrific; desserts less so.

Dishes We Liked

Gin-cured salmon with radish, parsnip ketchup, sumac, and cress ($10); beef and Broccolini with fermented black beans, soy, and cabbage ($19); Atlantic cod, Kennebec “chips,” and malt vinegar ($15)

Additional Information:

Rating:
Price: $20-$39
Cuisine: Seafood
Neighborhood: Logan Square
Noteworthy: Child friendly
Wheelchair accessible
Hours: D nightly.
Date Opened: 3.31.2015
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