This roomy storefront, run with laid-back charm by the folks behind cocktail nirvana Scofflaw, gets so much right. Thick ropes and bottled ships lend a nautical touch, and chef Matt Danko integrates seafood into intricate compositions in unexpected and winning ways. Take a look at—and a taste of—the creamy monkfish liver sprinkled with caviar and tempered with pickled grapes and onion soubise, and you know you’re at a restaurant with greater ambitions than, say, shucking oysters. But, some of the kitchen’s greatest successes are all turf, no surf: case in point, an Asian-tinged beef and Broccolini. Drinks, both classic and original, are terrific; desserts less so.
Dishes We Liked
Gin-cured salmon with radish, parsnip ketchup, sumac, and cress ($10); beef and Broccolini with fermented black beans, soy, and cabbage ($19); Atlantic cod, Kennebec “chips,” and malt vinegar ($15)