Marking a 30-year run, Tony Mantuano has given his famous restaurant a face-lift, a new executive chef (Chris Marchino), and a new direction. Modern decor and a casual-chic vibe match the flashy contemporary style of fare that often combines delicacies from far-flung parts of Italy with modernist touches and un-Italian complexity: Spicy Calabrian njuda sausage in nontraditional risotto with premium Piedmontese Castelmagno cheese; Campanian Controne pepper atop northern Italian salt cod agnolotti with langoustines. Fussy plates (beet salad) distract, while the simplest preparations captivate, as in rare Muscovy duck breast in foie gras sauce with perfect leek cylinders. Truffle supplements can stretch even expense accounts. Fabulous Italian cheeses and wines, priced accordingly.