The thoroughly average façade and decor at this storefront, along with the low prices and lettuce-leaf-garnished platings, belie the excellence of the food. The translated Thai menu holds the real finds, despite some overlap with the by-the-numbers regular menu. Dishes such as jerky-like beef strips with tamarind dipping sauce or a one-bite salad of dried shrimp, peanuts, and toasted coconut show attention to balancing sweet, sour, and umami. Boat noodles ($9) easily feeds two, but even splurges like soft-shell crab ($16) are generous. Skip dessert.