Tallgrass is tall again. After a spell of coasting in the lovely 19th-century canal town setting, Robert Burcenski's refined cooking is rejuvenated. On his three- to seven-course menus ($48 to $88), you may find sautéed black grouper on barley with walnuts and raisins in green apple verjus, roast capon in porcini cream with root vegetables, and magnificent crisp sweetbreads in Dijon sauce with pickled grapes and savoy cabbage. Stellar desserts, cheeses, and a fine wine list that leans toward pinot noirs boost the sophistication.
Additional Information
Rating: 3 stars
Price: $50-plus
Cuisine: Contemporary
Neighborhood: Suburban Southwest
Noteworthy: wheelchair accessible
Dishes We Liked:
(All dishes are part of a prix fixe menu.) Smoked salmon, curry emulsion, avocado “tartare,” and pickled shallots; royal trumpet mushrooms, crisp egg, leeks, asparagus, and Parmesan oil; duck breast and confit, ginger port sauce, hazelnuts, and purple rice; house shiitake guittara pasta, Parmesan, jalapeno artichoke sauce; lemon quintet (torte, curd, mousse, biscuit, shot)
