Chris Pandel’s endlessly inventive pastas, which might include a breezy Pernod-glazed fennel chitarra one day and a rich bucatini with tomato-braised duck liver and kidney sugo the next, continue to star at this seasonal-minded storefront. Sip a selection from the well-curated wine list and graze on well-conceived salads and vegetable starters, but don’t be surprised if the entrée list proves a bit small and redundant. Some flavors, especially dill, seem to show up too often; the roasted chicken, however, simply patted with salt and pepper, more than lives up to its fame as one of the best birds in town. Engaging servers help cautious diners make the most of the bold, if compact, menu. Desserts tend to be a bit on the sweet side.