Chris Pandel’s endlessly inventive pastas might include a breezy Pernod-glazed fennel chitarra one day and a rich bucatini with tomato-braised duck liver and kidney sugo the next. Some flavors, especially dill, show up too often; however, the roast chicken, simply patted with salt and pepper, lives up to its fame as one of the best birds in town. Desserts favor the sweet side. A well-curated wine list and engaging servers.
Dishes We Liked
Fennel chitarra ($15), bucatini with tomato-braised duck liver and kidney sugo ($15), Yukon potato with leek fondue ($18), roasted chicken with creamed corn diavolo ($22), malt sundae with hazelnut cake and preserved cherries ($8)