The one-time jewel in the crown of One Off Hospitality (Big Star, Avec) shines less brightly lately, its porcine pleasures muddled by inconsistent execution and absentee servers. That’s not to say you won’t still coo over well-balanced seasonal small plates or the umami-packed smoked ham chop. But some flavors either punch too hard or barely register, and even the famed roast chicken has lost its luster. The constant crowds don’t seem to have noticed, though, and the decadent weekend brunch remains a worthy tradition.
Dishes We Liked
Bread plate with three spreads ($11), apple salad ($14), chicken liver pâté ($13), ham chop in hay (market price), beef tongue ($18), butterscotch pudding ($7)