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The Publican

837 W. Fulton Market
Chicago, IL 60607

Critic’s Notes

Don’t be lulled into porky bliss by the smiley beer experts and the salty-sour-sausagey delights you’re served. Undergirding the food at Paul Kahan’s beer hall are composition and technique to rival most restaurants with whiter tablecloths (or any tablecloths). The pig ear strips on the Little Gem Salad, for example, crunch just enough but don’t stick to your teeth, and the romaine, fennel, and buttermilk vinaigrette have been tuned precisely to please without peacocking. The farm chicken, sausage, and fries commingle as if this were the celebratory meal of a village festival 500 years ago. Desserts, maybe a touch fancier, evince top talent.

Dishes We Liked

Potted rillettes ($12), little gem salad ($10), farm chicken ($24), blood sausage ($17), fried broccoli ($11), pistachio pot de crème ($8), puff pastry ($7)

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Additional Information:

Price: $50-plus
Cuisine: Contemporary American
Neighborhood: West Loop/West Town
Noteworthy: Child friendly
High noise level
Outdoor dining
Wheelchair accessible
Will seat past 10:30 p.m.
Hours: D nightly. Br Sat, Sun. Late seating Fri, Sat.
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