This Boul Mich gastropub parties like it’s pork’s heyday a few years back, and some customers may actually have been in line since then. Although the use of pork parts has abated a bit, the kitchen still dissects, roasts, fries, smokes, and preserves the pig. In addition, the restaurant excels at seafood, cheeses, and snacks, always marrying robust meaty flavors with jangly sours and herbs. When you factor in the wait—no reservations—you could spend a lifetime working your way through the long, consistently good menu. An extensive wine list holds dozens of by-the-glass options.