Straightforward, homey dishes, each executed with utmost attention to freshness and flavor, make this one of the most authentically Italian spots around. Decor is hard-edged and a bit cold, but a platter of antipasto rustico and a Negroni, or maybe a glass of Montepulciano, will warm you right up. Grilled radicchio with melty Taleggio cheese is simple but effective—wood-fired pizzas even more so: We loved our casareccia with fresh mozzarella, Gorgonzola, tomatoes, and mushrooms. Housemade pastas are another strength, judging from the lasagna alla Bolognese and ravioli alla zucca. Finish with gelato or tiramisù-like torta di mandorle and excellent coffee.