This suburban spot’s bustling open kitchen grows ever more proficient in its adventurous, easygoing style. Lively and well-balanced flavors shine in dishes such as grilled octopus and charred cuttlefish with olive aïoli and braised short ribs in a Guinness stout–wine reduction. Time-tested classics remain, among them a stellar wedge salad and rigatoni and shrimp with fire-roasted-tomato sauce and arrabbiata butter. Look to the sides for gems such as roasted cauliflower with apple saba and shaved pear. Fairly priced wines and craft cocktails abound.