Rick Bayless’s love letter to regional Mexican food has always doubled as an encyclopedia entry, and it reads better than ever. The menus and decor are 100 percent in sync—equal parts historic and ultramodern. Chef de cuisine Andres Padilla comes up with showstoppers such as Oaxaca enfrijoladas—crispy homemade corn tortillas enfolding parsnip camote mash, seared tomatillos, cincho cheese, and knob onions. Jennifer Jones’s wonderful desserts offer a seamless extension of the new attitude: Think warm bread pudding infused with queso añejo and served with poached quince, queso añejo ice cream, persimmon purée, and hazelnut crumble. If there’s any weakness, it’s the service, warm but inconsistent. Otherwise, Topolobampo flies high.