The circus decor could hardly be more dated, but sharing a laugh at its expense is part of the fun at this pretheatre warhorse. Fortunately the menu offers less ersatz pleasures. The crab cake is a fine start. Pastas might include chestnut pappardelle with hearty wild boar ragu and tortelli with meaty mushrooms, but mains seem the way to go—moist roast chicken with rosemary cream in particular. With banana two ways on the menu (brûléed and as banana cake), be sure to leave time, and room, for dessert. Huge wine list has something for everyone.