Leave it to Matthias Merges, former director of operations at Charlie Trotter’s, to transform the phrase “Westernized Japanese fare” into a badge of honor. In his Asian-street-food-inspired kitchen, no one fiddles around with delicate slices of sashimi or cute little radish nibbles. You’re invited to eat like a Chicagoan adrift in modern Tokyo, devouring big bowls of beer-chicken ramen, skewers of Asian sausages, and open-faced bao buns “tacos” stuffed with blood sausage and pickled cauliflower. The signature twice-fried chicken has no equal in the city, while the stellar beverage list, brimming with homegrown Japanese beers, whiskeys, and spirits, improves everything around it. Save room for dessert, perhaps Yusho Honey Toast, a towering brioche dessert that fuses the textures of French toast with the flavors of a tres leches cake, complete with a sundae’s worth of ice cream on top.