Movable Feasts

Call them “underground,” “unofficial,” or “occasional.” Whatever the name, restaurants that don’t have a permanent address and that eschew traditional licensing are popping up all over town. Eating at one is the dining equivalent of choose-your-own adventure: diners, who exchange hushed e-mails to get on the list, show up where they’re told and eat whatever the chef feels like preparing. It’s fun, sure. But at $25 to $100 a pop, are they any good? Chicago checked out a few to find out.

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Bonsoirée

THE SETUP: Chef/owners Shin Thompson and Kurt Chenier own Bonsoirée (2728 W. Armitage, 773-486-7511), a catering operation situated on a stretch of Armitage that's overrun with lofts and condos. On Saturday nights, they turn their space into a dining club.

A TYPICAL MEAL: A French spring fava bean soup puréed through a strainer to a fine velvety texture, followed by mango mint salmon in a bright acidic guava emulsion that melts on the tongue.

THE VERDICT: The best intersection of price and quality.

HUSH FACTOR: Low. Held weekly; the only secret is why the Bonsoirée folks bother calling their operation "underground." Enter your vitals at bonsoiree.com/underground. Plan two weeks out.

This article appears in the July 2007 issue of Chicago Magazine.

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