Movable Feasts

Call them “underground,” “unofficial,” or “occasional.” Whatever the name, restaurants that don’t have a permanent address and that eschew traditional licensing are popping up all over town. Eating at one is the dining equivalent of choose-your-own adventure: diners, who exchange hushed e-mails to get on the list, show up where they’re told and eat whatever the chef feels like preparing. It’s fun, sure. But at $25 to $100 a pop, are they any good? Chicago checked out a few to find out.

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Sunday Dinner Club

From $35 (for three courses) to $65 (for five or more)


THE SETUP: The chefs are passionate gourmands who met at culinary school and wish to use only their first names-Christine, Joshua, and Jason. They are, respectively, a former restaurant employee/wine seller, a schoolteacher who worked in the Bronx, and a Merc trader. They're also vets of Blackbird and Naha.

A TYPICAL MEAL: Handmade ravioli stuffed with morel mushrooms, served with homemade ricotta, pea shoots, and wild onions, followed by a sweet chili-glazed pork belly with pickled jalapeños and onions.

THE VERDICT: They were on hiatus during the reporting for this story, but experienced diners attest that the meals are painstakingly crafted with in-season ingredients and restaurant-quality detail.

HUSH FACTOR: High. To get on the list, find someone who's gone before and get a recommendation. Or poke around on the food blogs (LTHforum.com). Chances are, some of the active posters have visited before and might offer you an in.