Eat Cheap All Day at Reno in Logan Square
Wood-fired bagels at breakfast. Pasta and pizza at night. Telegraph wine bar next door. What more could you want?
Bagels from Reno
It may not have occurred to many people to want a bagel baked in a wood-fired oven, much less to seek out such a thing. But this smart sibling (and next-door neighbor) of Logan Square’s Telegraph wine bar makes a convincing case for that idea. Bagels ($2.25) customized with egg, lox, and other proteins ($1 to $3) and tomatoes, radishes, and assorted extras (50 cents to $1) are the focus of the breakfast menu. At lunchtime, sandwiches ($7.50) take center stage. Don’t miss the Cowboy Killer: maple fennel sausage, a fried egg, béchamel, bacon, and rajas (sautéed peppers and onions) on a toasted bun.
After 5 p.m., table service kicks in, and housemade pastas, such as rigatoni carbonara ($14), shine. Want wood-fired pizza? Choose your toppings or try one of the bold combos, which include everything from pepperoni with jalapeño pesto ($12) to a mellow layering of butternut squash, sage, and Gruyère ($11). Desserts are lovely; keep an eye out for malted chocolate mousse pie topped with coffee toffee. Nice wines, beers, and juices, as well as Stumptown coffee. Cash only. 2607 N. Milwaukee Ave., 773-697-4234.
Photograph: Anna Knott