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6

Swift & Sons

Fulton Market

Foie gras torchon with quince and poached pear  Photo: Jeff Marini

This sharp steakhouse, a collaboration between the Boka and B. Hospitality restaurant groups, yields a rare kind of professionalism. Solicitous staffers prowl the sprawling space—a former meatpacking facility reimagined as an agri-executive’s stylish office—looking for customers to please. They achieve this with attention to detail but also with confidence in the menu. Caesar salads and French onion soups share the stage with legitimate three-star fare such as a tingly citrus-poached lobster. Many of the 12 “boutique beef” steaks are first-rate, of course, especially a 22-ounce wet-aged bone-in rib eye. And pastry chef Meg Galus may soon be a household name, or at least a hero at tables that order her chocolate trolley, a cacao carnival of lollipops, macarons, cookies, and candy bars.

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