Luscious nuggets of white meat from the kitchen’s rotisserie stand in for the French dip’s usual fatty beef. Swathed in melted Jack cheese and heaped with tomato, onion, and arugula, they fold it into a soft-crisp baguette with authority. The jus is just windowdressing.

$10. 3455 N. Southport Ave., 773-883-2525, crosbyskitchenchicago.com