Nothing will ever eclipse the superb fortified port of Portugal’s Douro wine region, but the area’s newer red table wines come close. Lavradores de Feitoria Vinho Tinto Douro 2006, from a collaboration of 15 quintas (estates), is made from grapes normally used to make port—tinta roriz (AKA tempranillo) and touriga nacional. It’s dry, smooth, and fragrant, with hints of gaminess and minerals behind the fruit. Perfect for a cooler weather roast or braise—and at $11, about a third of the cost of a modest port.
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