You kind of have to know what you're looking for when you set out to explore the new Whiner Beer taproom (1400 W. 46th St., Back of the Yards). It's not like it has much in the way of street presence—it looks out onto the back of a Walmart. But when you find it, it's a pretty wonderful discovery.

Whiner operates out of the Plant, a sustainable food business hub inside an old factory that hosts a lively market on the first Saturday of the month. Peruse the stalls, grab a vegan tamale, and sidle up to the industrial, minimalist bar for a glass of Le Tub, their excellent, tart farmhouse ale. (All the beers we sampled were interesting and easy-to-drink in equal measure, far from the fashionable hop bombs you find elsewhere—it's clear that owners and beer-world veterans Brian Taylor and Ria Neri know what they're doing.) In the evenings, it's quiet, but on market days, it's bustling. Take your pick and plan a visit.

Here's what we saw when we stopped in.