Roebuck Serves Neapolitan-Inspired Pizza with a Twist
At this Lake View East spot, the classic pizza and beer combo has a European pedigree.
Published Nov. 8, 2019, at 10:43 a.m.
Text by Peter Ranvestel
Pizza and beer is one of the all-time great food/drink combos, and there’s no shortage of places in this city to get a quality pie and a pint. But even with an excess of these establishments, it’s never a bad thing to see another joint peddling the pairing, especially when they try to bring something interesting to the table. Roebuck is one of the newest entries to not just serve both, but to brew and bake everything in house.
Right off the bat, Roebuck has got a few things going for it. Not only is this new concept from the folks behind DryHop and Corridor breweries — so you know they’ve got craft brew chops — it also happens to be right next door to DryHop, making for a perfect two-stop outing. As for the pizza? To ensure he could produce a quality product, founder Greg Shuff spent six weeks in Naples, Italy, learning authentic Neapolitan baking techniques from a master pizza maker. Roebuck’s pies take some liberties with the traditional techniques, featuring a chewier crust and plenty of modern ingredients, like pickled jalapeños, cherry bomb pepper jam, and drizzles of honey. Pizza purists need not panic — the lineup also includes standards like a marinara and margherita.
Though they share a wall, Roebuck and DryHop are two completely separate entities with different identities. Consider Roebuck the worldly, more chill younger sibling. The interior is cozy and dark, with a rustic, laid-back vibe and European influences beyond just the Old World pizza techniques. The brewpub is named for the roe buck, a species of European deer, and the beer selection is like a mini tour of the continent. Though small (just four taps), it currently includes a lager, a pilsner, and a hefeweizen, which is a nice change from the big sister brewery’s hop-heavy offerings. There’s also a seasonally inspired cocktail menu. Music plays from a turntable at the front desk at a level low enough to talk over, and multiple seating options let guests hang solo or in large groups.
DryHop quickly became a neighborhood fave, and based on the crowd during our visit, the ’hood has taken a liking to Roebuck as well.