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Amy: Welcome to Dish From Chicago Magazine. I’m Amy Cavanaugh, Chicago magazine’s dining editor.

John: And I’m John Kessler, Chicago magazine’s dining critic.

Amy: Today we’re talking all about winter dining and the places that we like to go to for cozy and transportive experiences. Plus we’ll also share the best things we’ve eaten lately, which includes a delicious biscuit from a longtime favorite. But first, we’ve got a bit of news about a restaurant opening in Bucktown. 

John: Yeah. So I was walking by the old Jack & Ginger’s, you know, a local watering hole that’s been closed for a while on Armitage, long rumored to become a second restaurant for Monteverde. And lo and behold, construction has started. There is a building permit in the window. The name on it is Rob Mosher, who is the partner at Montverde. So it looks like Sarah Grueneberg and crew are going to open up a second restaurant here. I asked them, I asked their publicist, no comment, but it is happening. I had a lot of people comment on it when I put something up on Instagram, and what I’ve heard are two theories. One is it’s going to be a southern restaurant, because Sarah’s from Texas, which could be awesome. And the other is that it’s going to be pizza, which sounds very likely, because, you know, everybody does pizza as a second act, like Radicle from the Daisies team.

Amy: That’s true. And I mean anything that Sarah and company do, I think you know, definitely worth keeping an eye on. But both of those concepts sound really good.

John: I know either would be great. I’m still bugging them, and they’re just so, ‘No comment, we’ll let you know when something’s there.’ And I’m like, Oh, come on, just out with it already. But anyhow, let’s, let’s make our show.

Amy: We are in the thick of winter. It is getting dark early, it is cold outside, and this can be a really hard time for dining out. People stay home in the post-holiday slump. They spent all their money over the holidays. The weather is bad. It’s freezing, it’s icy, and people don’t want to go out. But I think there’s still a lot of reasons to put on the puffy coat and go outside. One is smaller crowds. It is easier now to get into restaurants, you know, that you might have a hard time getting into during the summer. And, you know, you want to go out and support places when they’re having a bit of a slower season. You know, you want them to be here for that busy season. So we kind of have to help them through the winter. And I just think Chicago does cozy dining so well. We have so many, you know, small taverns and in places where, you know, you know, you just kind of want to sit at the bar with a cocktail and something to eat, and it’s, it’s really right for the season. How do you kind of feel about winter dining? 

John: Absolutely. Yeah, no. There’s so many places in Chicago where there are bars with good food and nice light and, you know, it’s snug inside, and it just feels good having arrived there. So, you know, the longer I’ve lived here, the more I’ve really begun to appreciate that vibe.

Amy: Do you have any go-tos for winter? 

John: I mean, whenever we can get in, Le Bouchon is always our favorite winter place, because it’s just, there’s just so much energy in there. The lighting is great. Getting a spot at that bar just feels like you’ve won the lottery. So I love that. Void is definitely a place that’s become a favorite for, you know, that same thing. It’s just, I don’t know, it’s just kind of a lots of, you know, wood and golden light and nice food and long bar. How about you?

Amy: Yeah, one of my go-tos is Longman & Eagle, which I love, sitting in that front room. It’s dark, it’s, you know, very cozy. The whiskey drinks are exceptional. And I love the Longman Manhattan. And I dined there a few weeks ago, and just had, like, really cozy food, you know, a great sausage dish. The burger is one of my favorites in the city. I really, you know when I when I think, like, cozy winter dining out, I think Longman & Eagle.

John: Oh, that’s very cool, yeah. And I haven’t been there in a while, because the food there changes a lot. I mean, I guess it’s sort of the spirit of it stays the same. But depending on who’s cooking, I never quite know what it’s going to be like. How is the food?

Amy: The food is very good. Yeah, the new chef, I’m not sure when she started, you know, is doing a really nice job. We had this apple and cheddar sausage that was really terrific.

John: Oh, great. Okay, you know where I went for a burger at the bar just yesterday, was Bar Parisette. 

Amy: Oh, okay. 

John: Yeah. And that had been a moment, but it was nice. It was, you know, again, it’s a cozy place. They have a great happy hour where you can get, like certain cocktails are are inexpensive, the burger, or the veggie burger is inexpensive. So I sat there and I had a really, really nice hamburger, and, or cheeseburger with cheddar, and a perfect martini, which I had never had before, which was, okay, not my thing, but I’ll try it again. Do you like them?

Amy: I do, yeah, and it’s been a while since I was at Bar Parisette, actually, so I feel like I’m due for a return.

John: All right. Well, since we’re just bellying up to bars, any, do you have any others?

Amy: Yeah, Scofflaw is a favorite in the winter. Yeah, you know their their gin program’s great. I love their negroni, and they also have a great burger. They always do, you know, really nice charcuterie. And I think they’re such a sleeper hit for brunch. My favorite time there is actually, like, a Saturday or Sunday afternoon for, like, a long, leisurely brunch, great Bloody Mary. I think that’s still kind of, you know, a little secret. And if it’s snowing, you can see the snow falling through the huge window. So very good winter spot. 

John: Oh, that’s great. 

Amy: Yeah. And then another one is Hopleaf. I think Hopleaf is, is such a good cozy spot. Get some mussels, get a beer. It’s, you know, such a long time staple. But, you know, they just continue to do such a good job.

John: You know, I have to admit, I don’t think I’ve ever been. 

Amy: It’s a classic. 

John: I know it’s, it’s definitely, I’m long overdue to check the place out. It’s been a while too, but I like The Loyalist in the same vein. You know, it’s weird when a burger is $30 but it is good burger.

Amy: It’s a good burger. I know. Yeah, I think The Loyalist, you know, by virtue of being in the basement and being dark, really hits that cozy vibe. And, yeah, I love the burger, but I also love their omelets, and there’s always like, a good roast chicken dish as well.

Amy: Let’s move on to like really warming dishes.

John: My wife Arlene and I have become super fans of Akahoshi Ramen. We have learned— I’ve always liked it. You know Mike Satinover, the Ramen Lord from Reddit, who opened the restaurant over a year ago, we had that wonderful Kevin Pang profile of him in the magazine. He is kind of the guy who everybody bases their ramen recipes on, who tried to do it at home. But anyhow, it’s such a great restaurant, the ramen so hits the spot, and we’ve learned that, don’t try and tie yourself up trying to get a reservation, because they’re impossible. But go put your name on the waiting list, go over to that. What is it? Spilt Milk tavern across the street, and get get a beer, and then, usually, in about 30 minutes, your table’s ready, and it’s great.

Amy: Oh, nice. Yeah. I really enjoyed my visit there, and this feels like the time to get back there.

John: The Midwest Shoyu ramen he’s doing now is better than it’s ever been. That broth is just so good. It’s a little fishy. You know, there’s some of the fish flakes in it, but just good, good, good fishy.

Amy: All right, nice. How about pho? Do you have any go-tos for that?

John: I don’t have, like, a favorite, favorite pho, and it’s always a matter of how long I want to travel. For the least amount of travel, I go to MK Noodle pho on Lincoln Avenue near Paulina Meat Market. They are sweet people. It’s kind of a funny place. And the pho’s good. I always love going up to Asia on Argyle and checking out all the restaurants up there. What is it? 777? Up there was really good. I don’t know. How about you? 

Amy: Yeah. I mean, I am very lucky to live right by Asia on Argyle, not, not too far at all. So there’s so many good spots up there. Yeah, there’s 777, and 888.

John: Yeah, I’ve been to both, but I think 777 is the one I really liked.

Amy: I feel like I can’t even remember which one, but I’ve been to both. Enjoy both. Yeah. I mean, you know, there’s so many good spots around there. Hai Yen is always, you know, a classic spot, but, yeah, I mean, you know, there’s just so many spots to pop into for good bowl. And then LD Phở, which I haven’t been to in a minute, but really enjoyed my visit there previously. They have a, they have a large menu, but the pho I had there was really terrific.

John: And I guess, can’t forget Phodega on Division, which is always a fun place to go to. And I actually have to say, when I go there, I like their chicken pho, because they use really nice tasting chicken in it.

Amy: That’s the one I had, too, and it was really delicious. All right, any any other dishes you kind of seek out once you know, temps are freezing outside?

John: Yeah just anything that has valium in it. Now, I don’t know I just you know anything to, you know, ease the misery of the short days. Yes, when it is really cold and dreary outside, I always kind of like, you know, childhood favorites, like, just kind of stupid Italian food, red sauce Italian. Not good red sauce Italian, but really, kind of too-sweet tomato sauce, mediocre red sauce Italian. That always hits the spot for me when it’s really cold.

Amy: Absolutely. Do you have any go-to red sauce joints lately?

John: This sounds so basic, and I’m sorry, but I just cycle through them on DoorDash. They’ll be like, you know, I’ll try one then the other. And I, you know, all are fine, none are amazing. I just, like, you know, whoever has, like, a two-for-one deal or something, I mean, I just, when I want something really basic, I want basic. Like, I want those noodles to be soft enough to gum.

Amy: Okay, future podcast topic is basic food we love, because I also love, just like, very simple, simple things. 

John: Absolutely. I love that idea. 

Amy: On the flip side of these cozy places, we also have these places that feel very transportive, that kind of take you to a warmer climate and take you out of Chicago, and they’re very much the kinds of places I seek out right now. One of my go-tos is Three Dots and a Dash and Bamboo Room. The team there, you know, really does fantastic work with rums and other, you know, tropical spirits. And have you been to the Bamboo Room before?

John: I never have. That’s a little place that’s inside Three Dots? 

Amy: Yeah. So it’s that, it used to be the private event space, and it’s just this little bar, a couple tables in there, and they do a separate menu, and it’s a little more upscale. I love it because, you know, I love quieter, more private bars, but I also I absolutely love, you know, the drinks at regular Three Dots as well. But, yeah, if you haven’t been to Bamboo Room, I think it’s definitely worth a visit.

John: You know, what else is? I don’t know if you’ve been yet to Consignment Lounge in Logan Square? 

Amy: I haven’t been yet.

John: That is such a sweet bar. It like, looks like a consignment shop. I mean, it really is. It’s like everything’s for sale, or it looks like, I don’t know, it’s got a Pee-wee’s Playhouse kind of thing going on, where it just doesn’t quite seem real. But it really is just delightful. I love going there. The decor makes me smile. The drinks are like, pretty good, but, you know, they hit the, hit the spot.

Amy: All right, nice. That’s, that’s on my list of bars I need to get to. So excited to check that out. 

John: Any others? 

Amy: Yeah, I think Brasero is a really good spot to kind of get out of, get out of the city and head down to South America. You know, I love all the flavors and everything, you know, and all the food we’ve got, like, a lot of like, nuts and herbs and things like that, and a lot of seafood, which we know is my favorite thing to eat. And then I think the drinks, really, you know, also take you out of there. I mean, last time I was in, I had a blue margarita, which, you know, is nothing but fun. So that is on my list. 

John: Does it turn your tongue blue? 

Amy: I don’t think it did, but I never checked.

John: What’s that new place next to Gus’ Sip & Dip? 

Amy: Oh, Crying Tiger. 

John: Crying Tiger. That has got that tropical vibe going on. Absolutely.

Amy: Yeah. And I know you went recently, and I went recently as well. And that does it for sure. You know, bananas foster-inspired desserts. I absolutely love the duck curry. And just the design in there is beautiful too.

John: It really is. I mean, it really has that kind of like nods toward Trader Vic’s and everything, but isn’t quite that, but it’s, it’s a really cannily done design that suggests tropical Asia in a really kind of fun way. 

Amy: Definitely. Yeah, another one that’s a little different, but I still think kind of takes me out, is Daisy’s Po-Boy in Hyde Park. 

John: Oh, yeah. 

Amy: I always, Yeah, like, I always think that, you know, New Orleans this, this is the best time of year to visit New Orleans. And Daisy’s makes you know, my favorite po-boy in town. And so that’s, that’s a great one. And the hurricane is absolutely fantastic.

John: Yeah and you got all those, those New Orleans colors on the walls and everything, I mean, they’re just, you see that color combination, and just immediately puts you there, you know.

Amy: Absolutely. Yeah, right. And then I just have two more bars that I think do a really good job with Latin spirits. One is La Licor Panamericana, which is in Lo— well, both of these are in Logan, actually. And La Licor just really, you know, taps into the wide range of classic cocktails that you’ll find in Central and South America, and that’s really cool. And so they also have a really great back bar. Same with Estereo. Every time I go to Estereo, there’s something new that I like, some new combination that I haven’t thought of before. And they specialize in Latin spirits, particularly white spirits, and their frozen drinks are always excellent. So both of those spots I would definitely recommend for a drink that feels like you’re getting out of town. 

John: So for me, the best thing I ate recently was I went back to Mahari in Hyde Park. Had a lovely meal. I liked it even more than my first meal there. And they have something called rah-sta pasta, and it’s spelled R, A, H, hyphen, S, T, A, and it’s just a great like spaghetti dish in a really nicely spiced-up cream sauce. It has a lot of fresh thyme in it, and you can get whatever you want on top, like chicken or salmon or steak. And it was just so lip-smackingly delicious. So that was mine.

Amy: Oh, fantastic. I’m a fan of rasta pasta, but it was not on the menu when I went to Mahari, so clearly I’m gonna have to go back for it. 

John: Oh, wow. So rasta pasta’s a thing?

Amy: It is, yeah, it is. I think it’s an Americanized version, like of a Jamaican dish, but I’ve seen it around. I had one it the now closed Dr. Bird’s in Wicker Park and yeah, and their version was good, too. Mahari does such a good job with everything that I’m eager to try theirs.

John: Yeah, the food is just so warm and full and just you just feel like it’s just like a big hug. You know, it’s really got that kind of quality to it. How about you? What was the best thing you had?

Amy: Well, I went to Bang Bang Pie recently, which is a really go-to of mine for brunch, and I had never had the sausage biscuit, so I tried it. And it’s a biscuit with a sausage patty, American cheese, and peach habanero jam. And the peach habanero jam is just like the perfect addition to it. So it’s sweet, spicy, really filling. We tried a number of dishes, and this was kind of the unexpected hit, because they’ve offered this for quite a while, and I’ve just never tried it before, but really, really enjoyed it.