Small Bar

2049 W. Division St., 773-772-2727,
As the line separating watering holes and restaurants continues to blur, a meal at this unassuming soccer bar could be one of the finest you’ll have all year. Justin White, formerly of the Bristol, puts his shoulder to the wheel with an evolving, inspired bar menu—past hits include an Amish chicken ballotine with sausage, spicy braised greens, johnnycakes, and maple glaze ($17)—not to mention a superior weekend brunch.