This is a restaurant that would have to go out of its way to fail. Ryan Poli has teamed up again with Mercadito Hospitality and the cocktail wizards of the Tippling Bros., the crew that makes beautiful music together at Tavernita. But this time, the band is playing a different tune in a different genre, one that involves oversize antique mirrors and subway tiles, carbonated cocktails and New York strip steak with short rib and cognac poutine. “It’s about time we start spreading our horizons beyond Latin and Spanish cuisine,” says Poli, who will split his time between LMB and Tavernita. So will the rest of us. 10 E. Delaware Pl., 312-640-8141.

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Photograph: Anna Knott