“Wine bar” eans something totally different today than it did 20 years ago. The candlelit fuddy-duddy vino factories with half-assed cheese plates and aloof servers are history; in their place we get razor-sharp spots that pay equal attention to food, drink, and service. Like Logan Square’s cozy-hip Telegraph, where interesting notions pour out of Anderes’s kitchen, such as duck liver pâté spread thick on toasted bread painted with Cognac butter and topped with brandied tangerine wedges. The wines, mostly from small Euro producers, are chosen to provide what the restaurant’s website preciously calls a “unique synchrony of taste.” How far we’ve come.

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