One trend that seems to be emerging from this Paris season is long and lean. This is not to be confused with long and blousy (think Nina Ricci Fall 2008); rather, this silhouette has nipped-in shoulders, waist, and a straight or slightly flared pant or skirt.
It’s a chic look that can go very easily from office to evening, which typically is not a common characteristic of clothes you see on a Paris runway.
One surprise was at Andrew Gn this year, where there were many variations on lovely cashmere pants and tailored tops (he’s usually known for skirts and peasant blouses), which made for a sharp silhouette. The couture detailing for which Gn is known showed through on pretty, ruffle-necked blouses.
Akris is a collection that does exceptionally well on the selling floor, but perhaps because Swiss designer Albert Kriemler aims not to push a new vision to the world each season (and instead just tries to make lovely clothes), he gets little attention from the press. Kriemler used fabric as his starting point this season. “I just had a feeling to go softer. It was all in the drape of the fabric,” he explained. There was no stiff fabric, and the effect was effortless, but the long and lean look for which he is famous still showed in the silhouette.
Backstage, I snapped a shot of the model lineup for the show.
And here is Kriemler being interviewed (by the way, he told me he loves Chicago and always stays at the Park Hyatt).
In a similar category as Akris (does well with retailers, and is friendly towards women), is Martin Grant. If there is any woman who knows what an investment a great coat is, it’s the Chicago woman. And Grant showed a multitude of flattering choices, in cheerful bright red, blue, and beige.
Photography: Images 1-4 by Elisabeth Fourmont; Images 5-10 courtesy of Style.com
2 weeks ago