Auvignon. Back in my student days, that’s where I hung out and, thanks to the local Côtes du Rhône, that’s where I learned the joys of good red wine and robust food. When I heard that this southern French appella-tion enjoyed a great vintage in 2007, I dug out my old recipe for beef estouffade provençale and secured a bottle of unfiltered Domaine la Garrigue Cuvée Romaine ($13). Its lively acidity boots up ripe dark fruit and herb flavors with remarkable depth—even better than old memories.

Photograph: Michael Boone