Italian cuisine has dominated the city’s dining scene over the past year. While Alla Vita and Elina’s home in on classic red sauce, and Segnatore and Adalina deliver clever pastas, no place has proved more transportive than Testaccio. This cozy spot, from the Osteria Langhe team and chef Jacob Solomon, focuses on Roman food, particularly that of the neighborhood from which the restaurant takes its name. That means delicately fried artichokes served over puréed preserved lemons and sprinkled with an almond-chile mix, a nod to Rome’s Jewish quarter and Solomon’s own Jewish American background; pasta twirls slicked with a buttery anchovy sauce inspired by garum, the ancient Roman fish sauce; and a soul-comforting beef ragu deepened with braised oxtail. Finish with a glass of Amara D’Arancia Rossa Amaro, a blood orange liqueur, and a lemon-amaro bundt cake with blueberry preserves. If this is the closest you get to Rome this year, it’s still pretty sweet. 

2456 N. California Ave., Logan Square