David Burke’s Primehouse has raised the stakes on steaks. It now dry-ages prime bone-in rib eyes for 40 days ($49), 55 days ($58), and 80 days ($65). The 55-day rib eye is astounding in texture and flavor, more minerally than the excellent 40-day; the gamier 80-day approaches the biological wall for aging—you’ll never forget it. Burke’s is a New York operation, so Chicagoans may have to eat humble pie for dessert, but still ask for a tour of the Himalayan salt–tiled dry-aging room in the basement. The James, 616 N. Rush St.; 312-660-6000.
Photograph: Tyllie Barbosa