From the day Angelina Ristorante opened its doors in 1988, it had the Tuscan vibe down pat and drew a neighborhood crowd fond of low lighting, faux patina, and Italian staples. The innocuous storefront became so predictable, we almost forgot it was there—until Fred Ramos (Gioco, Pili Pili, Printer’s Row) took over the kitchen, that is. The menu still sports sautéed calamari, pasta pomodoro, and pollo Angelina, but Ramos is so good that he manages to make these old favorites seem new again. BTW: The cozy décor is the same but now it’s truly aged. 3561 N. Broadway; 773-935-5933.