2075 North Lincoln Avenue; 773-525-2522
CONTEMPORARY AMERICAN [$$]
Jason Paskewitz impressed the hell out of us in 2001 as opening chef at Wave. But since then he’s wandered from Gabriel’s to JP Chicago to Sangria and a slew of other spots—never in the right place at the right time. Until now, with Gemini Bistro. This friendly American bistro fits his style: straight-up French onion soup packed with soft, sweet onions and topped with melted Gruyère; plump PEI mussels awash in white wine sauce; and crisp-skinned Amish chicken with an addictive, garlicky mushroom ragoût. And his moist German chocolate cake is a genius throwback dessert. Hey, Jason, now that you’ve got your act together, please don’t take it on the road.
TIP: Arrive before 6:30 and get the $31 three-course prix fixe menu.
PRICE KEY: ¢ $10 to $19 $ $20 to $29 $$ $30 to $39 $$$ $40 to $49 $$$$ $50-plus
[Cost per person for dinner, excluding wine, tax, or tip]