The light bulb finally went on. Lately I’ve noticed sommeliers all over town pushing rieslings left and right. Even with its star on the rise, riesling accounts for less than 5 percent of wine purchases in America. Aromatic and undervalued, it’s equal to chardonnay as one of the world’s great white varietals. In the classic German style, the 2006 Paul Anheuser Schlossböckelheimer Königsfels Riesling Kabinett ($14) bursts with peach and citrus and enough acidity to balance the creamy sweetness. Go get enlightened.
Photograph: Blackbox Studios, Inc.