The chicken döner at DAS (2855 W. Fullerton Ave.) isn’t a döner kebab. I hate to start out as such a buzzkill, but nowhere inside the new restaurant’s space—which the owners carved out of the back of The Radler—will you find a glorious spinning cone of sliced chicken, slowly caramelizing in front of a flame.
To be fair, DAS admits as much in its menu, writing that the chicken is braised with tomato, paprika, and cinnamon. Indeed, the tender meat is nicely spiced and genuinely juicy, if missing the charred flavor of the flame. It’s joined by crunchy marinated cucumbers, sun-dried tomatoes, lettuce, and feta cheese. There are also three sauces, and you’ll want each one, especially the slightly spicy harissa.
It all adds up to a decent chicken wrap. The only real fault lies with the dry and brittle durum flatbread. Instead of providing a warm and loving embrace, it feels like one of those awkward hugs that’s all elbows.
5 days ago