Say ciao: Italian-American throwback Formento’s (925 W. Randolph St., West Loop, 312-690-7295) officially starts serving Wednesday evening, which means modernized twists on red-sauce classics such as rigatoni alla vodka, tuna tetrazzini, and canestri with Sunday gravy for all.

The massive spot (seriously–multiple dining rooms, a bar area, and a private event space with its own kitchen all spread out over 8,000 square feet) from chef Tony Quartaro and the team behind the Bristol and Balena also boasts a 600-plus-label wine list; house-labeled wines, olive oil and vinegars; and a grab-and-go sandwich and retail shop called Nonna’s. Eventually there will be delivery and a large patio, too.

Suffice it to say it’s a big restaurant opening—in more ways than one.