Today, Sink|Swim (3213 W. Armitage Ave., Logan Square) is changing its direction. Expect some tweaks that—while relatively minor—will shift the tone of the restaurant towards something more kitschy and casual.
Since opening in March 2015, Sink|Swim has peddled higher-end seafood just down the street from its sister gin joint, Scofflaw. Now, per partner and bar director Danny Shapiro, it will pivot toward a new vision: a “Scofflaw version of a seafood shack”, complete with a revamped cocktail menu. “We figured out, based on the reaction of the neighborhood, that we wanted to step back to our core components,” says Shapiro. “I think it’s a little more fun now. Plus, the average tab has come down a bit.”
Shapiro’s rebooted cocktail program includes three new fishbowls. There’s a take on the Zombie—a tiki classic—with a trio of rums buoyed by bitters, lime, pineapple, and grenadine, plus a spike of absinthe. The other two options—the Spritz Collins and Swim Margarita, both complex in their own right—sound refreshing and light by comparison. The food menu will skew affordable and approachable, with ceviche, a catch of the day (blackened, broiled, or fried—with a slew of new sides), and a rib-sticking crab mac and cheese. Broiled oysters join the fresh variety, still available for $1 each night from 9 p.m. to close. The popular fish and chips are also sticking around, alongside the popcorn custard dessert.
Shapiro says many of these changes are already completed: new dishes have worked their way onto tables over the last month. The ceiling has been repainted and the lights dimmed to a cozier level. Management is just waiting on some final touches: a few more portraits of sea captains and model boats are still to come. “It’s kitschy, for sure,” admits Shapiro. “But trust me—it won’t feel over the top.”
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