photograph: AndrewsBraddy

Although Macku Chan became known for Macku Sushi and Kaze, he was born in Vietnam. Vu Sua (2925 N. Halsted St., 773-360-8816), named for a Vietnamese fruit that etymologically means “breast milk,” represents his return to the hearth. For now, he and his partner, Tania Jun, are shuttling back and forth between Macku Sushi and their new baby.

Chan says a French influence hovers over the mostly Vietnamese menu, as in lobster–foie gras spring rolls. “We have super traditional [Vietnamese food], but also other twists,” he says. “Spring roll is on every Vietnamese menu, but not lobster–foie gras spring roll.” Whole fish such as red snapper, deep-fried and served with fish sauce vinaigrette, will also figure into the menu. Prices range from about $18 to $22 for entrées and $8 to $12 for appetizers.