Photo: Courtesy Pegasus

Pegasus (130 S Halsted. Greektown. 312-226-3377). Greek.


Still grilling, roasting, and flambéing taverna favorites at fast-food speeds, this Greektown icon is content to coast along on a winning—if familiar—formula.

The portions are big, the checks modest, and the valet parking free, all delivered in a sunny setting designed, both in and out, to evoke the bliss of alfresco dining on the Aegean. You can’t go wrong with a plate of orange-laced loukaniko sausage, a combo of pastitsio and chicken riganati, and a dish of Greek yogurt dappled with peaches and dates, but nothing is bound to surprise or astound. It is what it is, uninterested in changing with the tides or times.

Dishes We Liked: Grilled octopus ($13.95); No. 2 combination platter of pastitsio, spanakopita, roasted leg of lamb, and chicken riganati ($17.95); mixed fruit in orange and brown sugar syrup, served with yogurt and cinnamon ($6.50) 

New restaurant reviews, updated to reflect critics’ recent visits, appear each month in Chicago magazine, in Dine, as well as on our website. Listed restaurants are rated from one to four stars, where one is good, two is very good, three is excellent, and four is superlative. Pegasus was previously one star. The review appears in the August issue.