Jimmy Bannos Jr. made his name in Chicago as the chef-owner of Michigan Avenue stalwart the Purple Pig, but since departing the restaurant a few years ago, Bannos has been quiet. But not for much longer — Bannos is preparing to open Kouklas, a Greek spot in Niles (7620 N. Milwaukee Ave.), later this summer. He’s working on the project with his father, Jimmy Bannos, best known for the beloved Cajun-Creole spot Heaven on Seven.
The location is close to where Bannos grew up but while he didn’t specifically plan to open a suburban restaurant, as soon as the building became available, the plan formed. “I’ve seen a ton of spaces throughout my career, and you know right away if it’s going to work right when you walk in the joint,” he says. “It felt right.” The chef had been working on a Greek concept for many years (a potential version in the West Loop fell through back in 2017), so when the space met up with the idea he’d already been working on, magic happened. Some of his team from the Purple Pig will be coming along too, including his chef-partner Kevin Stack.
Bannos’s goal with Kouklas is not to reinvent Greek food, but to take classic Greek dishes and elevate them. He also wants to introduce diners to less common or regional Greek dishes they haven’t had before. Bannos equates his approach at Kouklas to that at the Purple Pig. “Let’s think about chicken souvlaki; simple as it comes, right? But how do we make it taste 10 times better than everyone else’s?” After the classics are taken care of, he plans to do more adventurous dishes, just like at the Purple Pig, and hopes customers will trust him and try anything he puts out.
Bannos is still finalizing the menu but he’ll also be offering housemade pastas and a selection of mezze, the dips and small bites that kick off a Greek meal. Bannos is also using Kouklas as an opportunity to indulge in his love of olive oil. When he worked at Esca in New York, he recalls a mentor who had 15 different olive oils to pair with different types of fish for crudo, and that stuck with him. “I’m obsessed with olive oil; I want to bring that type of knowledge to how seriously we are taking our Greek olive oil program.”
At the heart of the program is seasonality, which many Greek restaurants lack. “I’m not going to serve a tomato and cucumber salad in December,” Bannos says. “It might piss people off, I don’t know. I’ve always been strict about seasonality.”
The restaurant is slated to open later this summer, and you can sign up here for updates.