photo: courtesy bistronomic 

Ahi tuna tartare is a favorite at Bistronomic. 

Bistronomic 840 N. Wabash Ave., 312-944-8400. French.

(two stars)


Persuasive renditions of classic bistro fare are served in cozy surroundings at modest prices—a welcome surprise in this neighborhood.

Portions are Euro-reasonable rather than gut busting; a smart menu makes the most of homey foodstuffs and captures the mood of the season. Salads (Belgian endive, Caesar) and charcuterie (country pâté particularly) are well conceived and satisfying.

Recent pleasures included a nicely deconstructed boeuf bourguignon with tagliatelle and tender glazed short rib with fingerling potatoes and carrot purée. Banana brioche pudding surrounded by a halo of Nutella makes a fine finish. Well-priced wines, mostly French.

Dishes We Liked: Charcuterie ($12 for three kinds), Belgian endive salad ($9), ahi tuna tartare ($12), Caesar salad ($8), glazed beef short rib with carrot purée ($25), boeuf bourguignon ($24), glazed French lentils ($6), banana brioche pudding ($8)

New restaurant reviews, updated to reflect critics’ recent visits, appear each month in Chicago magazine, in Dine, as well as on our website. Listed restaurants are rated from one to four stars, where one is good, two is very good, three is excellent, and four is superlative. The review appears in the July issue, on newsstands now.