Brian Hall

Brisket at Sweet Baby Ray's

Chicago’s pizza pluralism was celebrated by Travel + Leisure this past month, but the gamut of barbecue here could smoke just about any city. Case in point: the now-17 sauces by the team at Sweet Baby Ray’s Smokehouse, Bourbon & Beer (3478 N. Clark St., 773-975-7427). The third location of the chain, after Wood Dale and Elk Grove Village, is poised to occupy the former Uberstein near Wrigley Field. (The other Uberstein recently emerged from its chrysalis to become the Monarch.)

The 17th sauce, an egg- and cream-based Alabama white sauce to accompany barbecue chicken, will line up with Lexington, North Carolina/Piedmont, Texas, Memphis, and Kansas City sauces, among others. The majority owner, David Raymond, hopes to be ready for the Cubs’ home opener on April 8.  “We’re looking forward to being part of Wrigleyville—and part of the Cubs’ future world championship,” Raymond says.

There are a lot of things pigs can do on your smoker, Mr. Raymond, but they still can’t fly.