Photo: Anna Knott Photography

A meal at Found, with eclectic furnishings and dynamic energy, may feel more like dinner at a friend's house than in a restaurant.

Found (1631 Chicago Ave., Evanston). 847-868-8945. American.

   (very good)

$ ($20–$29 per person for a meal, without tax, tip, or alcohol)

Something about the studied eclectic decor of Amy Morton’s new spot, when combined with Nicole Pederson’s satisfying and nuanced dishes, creates a vibe that’s downright giddy. The good spirit flows from table to table, many of which are scattered with plates of fried oyster tacos and lamb meatballs with pistachio chimichurri and yogurt. You will split a chocolate pot de crème with crème fraîche and homemade shortbread, if only to prolong the fun. Sparkly service, but frustrating no-reservations policy.

Dishes We Liked: Chicken liver mousse ($7); kale salad ($9); fried oyster tacos ($10); lamb meatballs ($12); roasted pork shoulder sandwich ($12); orange pound cake with Meyer lemon curd and toasted coconut gelato ($7)

New restaurant reviews, updated to reflect critics’ recent visits, appear each month in Chicago magazine, in Dine, as well as on our website. Listed restaurants are rated from one to four stars, where one is good, two is very good, three is excellent, and four is superlative. Found previously was not rated. The review appears in the June issue, on newsstands now.