Photo: courtesy trattoria no. 10

The shrimp ravioli will have your mouth watering at this upscale Italian restaurant. 

Trattoria No. 10 10 N Dearborn. Loop. 312-984-1718. Italian.

(two stars)

$$$

Snazzier than most trattorias, this subterranean spot is a haven for fans of eco-friendly Italian fare.

Consider burrata and speck with pesto or an arugula-apple salad for a knockout appetizer, and don’t miss one of the top-notch housemade pastas (served in full and half portions), such as ravioli with asparagus and aged provolone. Niman Ranch pork tenderloin with agrodolce peppers and roasted potatoes makes a sure-fire entrée, and lavender buttermilk panna cotta with muddled mint is the way to finish. A selection of Italian craft beers offers an interesting alternative to good Italian wines.

Dishes We Liked: Morel mushrooms with roasted polenta ($14), herbed shrimp ravioli with saffron-butter sauce ($19/$29), grilled organic salmon with Lyonnaise potatoes ($28), warm apple crostata with vanilla gelato and caramel ($9).

New restaurant reviews, updated to reflect critics’ recent visits, appear each month in Chicago magazine, in Dine, as well as on our website. Listed restaurants are rated from one to four stars, where one is good, two is very good, three is excellent, and four is superlative. Trattoria No. 10 was previously rated one and a half stars. The review appears in the October issue, on newsstands now.