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Foods from Amaru
Photos: Jeff Marini

It’s impossible not to fall for Amaru’s brawny, brainy food: bacon-wrapped plantains stuffed with chorizo; whole branzino in a brown butter mojo; a chicharrón the size (and shape!) of Chile. Chef-owner Rodolfo Cuadros — formerly of Carnivale, a restaurant roughly as intimate as a theme park — has clearly given himself over fully to his new endeavor. He built the communal table by the front window himself and got the handmade cookware from his ancestral Colombia. Chainsaw-level music aside, the open kitchen’s graceful melding of South American flavors rarely fails to satisfy both palate and soul.

Pernil en lata, chicharron, pollo al carbón, Cuban oxtail, ceviche
Clockwise from top left: Pernil en lata, chicharron, pollo al carbón, Cuban oxtail, ceviche

Update:Amaru is open for carryout and delivery with dishes like the bacon-wrapped chorizo-stuffed plantains and a Cuban-style burger, plus family meals like pernil or a chickpea achiote curry, which serve four people.

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