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At Kafka 3325 N. Halsted St.; 773-975-9463 (1) WHITE Colombelle 2006, France, $8.99. Clean and lemony, not toasty.  (2) RED Protocolo Red 2004, Spain, $6.99. A smooth, budget alternative to pinot noir. (3) RED Aveleda Charamba 2004, Portugal, $7.99. Berry up front, spicy finish. (4) WHITE Huber “Hugo” Grüner Veltliner 2005, Austria, $12.99. Fuller bodied than typical citrusy whites.

At Juicy (5) SPARKLING Domaine du Vieux Pressoir Saumur, France, $21. Smells like baby roses; tastes like underripe wild strawberries. (6) RED Descendientes de José Palacios Pétalos 2005, Spain, $21. A smoky, spicy red that pairs well with grilled fish. (7) WHITE Kungfu Girl Riesling 2006, Washington, $12. This critics’ darling is dry and zesty. (8) RED Palmina Barbera 2005, Santa Barbara County, California, $25. Bold enough to stand up to sauced ribs.

At The Bottle Shop (9) WHITE Lusco Albariño 2005, Rías Baíxas, Spain, $24. Dry and mineraly; pair with seafood. (10) RED Charles Joguet Les Petites Roches 2005, France, $19.95. Purply and ripe, from a great vintage.

At Randolph Wine Cellars 1415 W. Randolph St.; 312-942-1212 (11) RED Schug Carneros Estate Winery Pinot Noir 2005, California, $22.99. Dark berries; young, so decant before drinking.

At House Red (12) RED Torre Quarto Tarabuso Primitivo 2004, Italy, $14. Big like a California zin but refined and far less jammy. (13) ROSÉ Domaine La Suffrene 2005, France, $18. The star of any summer picnic. (14) WHITE Can Feixes 2005, Penedès, Spain, $12. Light bodied, yet elegant.

At Pops Shop (15) CHAMPAGNE Michel Turgy Champagne Réserve Selection Brut Blanc de Blancs, France, $30. A true value from the legendary French region.