Searching High and Low for Flour? Try the Publican’s Miller
Greg Wade, the James Beard Award–winning Publican Quality Bread baker, shares where he gets his main ingredient.
Interview by Samantha Yadron
Published May 21, 2020
“The flour you’d usually buy in the store is milled by cracking the grain into its three parts, only retaining the starchy part — the endosperm. It’s a functional piece of the kernel, but there’s no flavor, complexity, nutrients. At Janie’s Mill in Ashkum, they use a stone mill, which retains the whole kernel to make a more robust flour. They include the bran, which has a lot of minerals, and the wheat germ, which has amino acids and contributes sweetness. I use the all-purpose flour at work and at home. I trust the quality, I don’t have to worry about additives, and the flavor is better.” $4.50 for 1½ pounds. Available at Publican Quality Meats, 825 W. Fulton Market, and janiesmill.com