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The Mousse Is Loose

Lost Larson VinBar’s chicken liver pâté is almost as good as my grandma’s.

Photo: Jeff Marini

Even though I firmly believe the best chicken liver pâté in the entire world is made by my grandmother during Passover, I will concede that the whipped, airy mousse on Lost Larson’s Nordic charcuterie platter comes in a close second. It’s the rare liver dish that manages to taste like more than just fat. Sweet, mineral, and, yes, luscious as all get-out, it all but sparkles when spread on a wedge of nutty housemade toast and drizzled with raw honey. Watch your back, Grandma. $8.50. 5318 N. Clark St., Andersonville

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