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Beatrix’s Brunch: Good Eggs, Great Sweets

It’s enough to make a staunch savory bruncher order waffles–and love them.

The quinoa cakes at Beatrix   Photo: Carrie Schedler

The shtick: Light, breezy eats and killer sweets in an unstuffy hotel restaurant.

The vibe: Beatrix is made for the millennial Ladies Who Brunch. The booze flows freely, the menu skews healthy(ish; there’s kale on the menu but also a cheeseburger), and the environs are contemporary and well-designed without being in your face about it. Plus, there’s a bakery counter where you can buy a massive butterscotch-oatmeal cookie to go as you’re leaving, so what more could you want from a place? 8 out of 10

The food: As has been previously established, you’re either an egg person or a sweets person when it comes to brunch. Beatrix is good at eggs: The poached specimens perched atop quinoa cakes and pools of punchy tomato-basil sauce ($13) ooze just the right amount, and the fluffy scrambled eggs in the enchiladas ($13) are a great vehicle for the punch of roasted poblanos.

But the spot shines when it comes to the sugary stuff. Case in point: the house-made Belgian waffle, with its crisp exterior giving way to fluffy, gently sweet insides. Doused with strawberries, vanilla syrup, and sweet cream, it’s enough to make an egg person change her allegiance. Also, they serve the moan-inducing caramel pie ($8) at brunch, because there is never a wrong time for it. 9 out of 10

The drinks: There’s a rainbow of mimosas (blue, red, and orange, all $8 a pop) and a potent Tequila Sunrise ($8), but the real winner is the spicy Bloody Mary ($8), which could be a real contender in the city-wide Bloody Mary Wars. Theirs stands out with a strong lime-juice zing and a spicy kick. 8.5 out of 10

The service: Our waitress was chatty and warm but prone to extended disappearances, particularly when it came time for a coffee refill or to flag her down for the check. However, whenever we were able to find her, she was quick to fill a request. 7 out of 10

Overall: When it comes to downtown or hotel brunching, there may be no better option. 8 out of 10

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