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M. Henry Does a Solid Neighboorhood Brunch

It’s probably not worth a massive crosstown journey, but if you’re already in Andersonville, it’s a good option.

Huevos borrachos at M. Henry   Photo: Carrie Schedler

The shtick The Andersonville area’s tried-and-true.

The vibe This neighborhood go-to is stuffed with a cross-section of Edgewater and Andersonville denizens: young families, gaggles of hungover twenty- and thirtysomethings, hand-holding couples, grandparents with yawning grandkids in tow. This contributes to a rather lively atmosphere, so skip it if you’re looking for something more intimate. The décor is vintage-store-approved, with painted glass doors dangling from the ceiling acting as room dividers and mismatched chairs. Tight quarters—there are tables stuffed in every possible corner—but that lends a homey, comforting feel to the brunch proceedings. 8 out of 10

The food Nothing groundbreaking here, just solid and slightly freshened-up executions of things you already love. Fannie’s Killer Fried Egg Sandwich ($10.25) is indeed killer, thanks to its oversized slices of sourdough and addition of gorgonzola to the standard bacon-and-egg breakfast sandwich (though it could have done without the mealy, out-of-season tomato slices). The huevos borrachos and black bean cakes ($10.25) make for a sizeable plate of food, and while all the elements are there for a great order (chewy masa tortillas! Chorizo! Avocado!), it never quite coheres into anything. 7 out of 10

The drinks It’s BYO, so be sure to tote your own Champagne if you’re planning to turn the fresh-squeezed orange juice ($3.25) into a mimosa. The house blend of Metropolis coffee ($2.95) is mellow and lovely, and the iced tea ($2.50) tends toward fruity and flowery. 8 out of 10

Service Efficient and on it, if a bit detached. 7 out of 10

Overall If you’re in the area, it makes for a fine pit stop, but it’s probably not worth a special trip. 7.5 out of 10

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