Springing up like one of the first crocuses of 2014, Troquet River North (Hotel Felix, 111 W. Huron St., 312-202-9900) opens Friday, the first fruits of the newly formed partnership between the LM Restaurant Group and chef Martial Noguier (Bistronomic). It replaces LM Bistro in the space.
Troquet River North
- 111 W. Huron St.
Although it carries the same name as the LM Group’s other Troquet (1834 W. Montrose Ave., Ravenswood, 773-334-5662), near the Montrose Brown Line stop, the River North Troquet will slant a little more sophisticated—and also a little more sophisticated than a troquet in France. “When you are in Paris and you go to a troquet, [it’s] more like a neighborhood wine bar,” Noguier says.
Alongside a wine and beer focus, the new Troquet will serve simple French food, Noguier says, such as a shredded celery root and apple salad with horseradish and mayonnaise, or roasted quail with quail egg, savoy cabbage, pancetta, and fingerling potatoes. He projects the average per-person check to run between $30 and $35, including a drink. Chef Benoît Fliou, a recent Paris transplant, will run the day-to-day in the kitchen.
Noguier says that when he opened Bistronomic, all the chefs in Paris were opening bistros. Now they’re all opening troquets. He and LM have a 2-0 head start on everyone else in Chicago.