At Matilda, River North’s high-energy Mexican-Peruvian mash-up, the paella arrives with two bay scallop shells holding bites of ceviche. You and your dining partner instinctively know what to do: Pick them up, clink them together as in a toast, and down them like shots. This is a dish to enjoy with someone close, no plates or serving spoons needed. It’s not paella in the traditional sense, but rather a generous platter of creamy rice richly seasoned with Peruvian salsa madre. Chunks of juicy mahi mahi, octopus, shrimp, scallops, and chorizo reveal themselves as you poke around. And if you’re nice, you’ll find the last scallop and push it over to your partner’s side of the plate. $52. 535 N. Wells St., River North