Subway tile: check. Banquettes, booths, communal table: check. Dishtowel napkins: check. Smoky aromas: check. So how is this barbecue joint different from all other barbecue joints? It’s certified kosher—so no pork ribs, no braised pork, and no pulled pork. And no dairy. But plenty of terrific barbecue and a lot of fun.

At the communal table, you might be seated next to a large family celebration, learn that some of the guests are single, and end up playing matchmaker. All this and some of the juiciest barbecued beef ribs, chicken, and brisket around with plenty of global kosher wines to wash it all down. It’s smokehouse-meets-bar-mitzvah-party, and you half expect the room to break out in a hora. Don’t be perplexed. Just enjoy.